Marking a significant time in the history of horology, the Cartier Santos-Dumont was one of the first pilots’ watches, with a design that has endured through the years. This limited-edition piece features a subtle salmon dial complemented by a platinum case, combining vintage and modern aesthetics.

Released in 1994, this Cartier Santos-Dumont limited edition marked the 90th anniversary of the model. A popular legend suggests that the original watch was created for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont by Louis Cartier, as a practical solution to the problem of trying to use a pocket watch while flying. The 90th anniversary model was limited to 90 pieces, with all the watches being individually numbered on the brushed caseback.

This piece is distinguished by its warm-toned salmon dial, highlighting its vintage roots. Notably, the contrast between this orange hue and the white metal case is rarely found in other Cartier pieces. While the brand may be more experimental with their case designs, they have traditionally remained fairly conventional with their dial colouring, preferring neutral tones, making this salmon all the more unusual.

Other hallmarks of Cartier’s customary design cues are also present, such as the crisp black Roman numerals with their familiar slant, a sapphire cabochon set in the crown, and blued Breguet-style hands. The platinum case holds true to the original aesthetic, with a robust look that is reinforced by exposed screws on the polished bezel, a detail that was supposedly modelled after the Eiffel Tower.

In keeping with the traditional size of the Santos-Dumont, the watch is just 27mm in diameter and 1.5mm in thickness – slightly smaller than the modern pieces of our time, but possessing equal charm. Despite this, the shape of the case and the contrast between polished and brushed surfaces adds a level of intricacy and visual appeal which give the watch a noticeable presence on the wrist.

Please note that our auctions do not have a buyer’s premium. The winning bid is the final price.

Closer look

This Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. There are more noticeable marks on the back of the case and on the edge of the top right lug, with the latter likely resulting from a previous strap change. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback remain deep and well defined, suggesting that the watch remains in unpolished condition.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.